The truth is that, really, nothing you do with skin-care can completely prevent, halt, or reverse the very normal and natural aging process that we all experience. And the rate at which your skin shows age depends on many different factors, including your genetics and your environment as well as your skin-care habits.
And, of course, you shouldn’t feel like you have to address any of the skin changes we associate with aging, like wrinkles, fine lines, or dark spots. Having wrinkles is not a sign of a health issue, and whether or not you want to try to reduce their appearance is entirely up to you.
If you’re looking for something to help manage signs of aging, these are the ingredients you should look out for in skin-care products.
BROAD SPECTRUM SUNSCREEN
It’s a certifiable fact that sun exposure is one of the primary causes of all the signs of aging, from spots to wrinkles and everything in between. That makes adequate, daily sun protection a MUST, which is exactly why broad-spectrum sunscreen is on this list.
A broad-spectrum sunscreen blocks both UVA rays which can cause aging and UVB rays which cause burning. The recommended daily value is SPF 30, and it’s important to remember that reapplication is also essential. You can find both mineral and chemical broad spectrum sunscreens. The former work by sitting on top of the skin and deflecting the sun’s rays and the latter absorb into the skin to prevent the rays from damaging the cells. It’s a matter of personal preference, though mineral options are less likely to irritate sensitive skin. And, per some of the latest FDA findings, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, two of the most commonly used mineral sunscreen ingredients, have been found to be both safe and effective.
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VITAMIN C
One of the most common active ingredients in skin-care products today, vitamin C acts as an antioxidant to counteract and protect against free radical damage. Plus, it can also be used to effectively brighten dark spots over time.
But it can also be a surprisingly tricky ingredient to use correctly. It’s sensitive to light, for instance, so it’s important to only buy vitamin C products that are in airless, opaque packaging that protect it from degrading. And it also comes in varying concentrations (between 5% and 20%), which means the effects and side effects, like irritation may vary greatly between products.
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NIACINAMIDE
This increasingly popular skincare ingredient is a form of vitamin B3 that has shown promise in fighting free radical damage, brightening dark spots, and managing acne. And those with sensitive skin will be pleased to know that some research shows it can brighten skin with fewer side effects or irritation than other first line treatments, like hydroquinone.
Although your dermatologist can’t prescribe a niacinamide product on its own, this ingredient can be compounded into many other topical prescriptions. And there are more and more over-the-counter options for niacinamide out there as well.
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SALICYLIC ACID
Although you may be more familiar with salicylic acid as an acne treatment,. This beta-hydroxy-acid (BHA) has some serious exfoliating powers, which makes it a good option for managing signs of aging as well. There’s some evidence to suggest it can also boost the production of collagen.
Unlike other chemical exfoliants, salicylic acid is also oil soluble, allowing it to get deeper into your greasy pores. So if you have especially oily or acne-prone skin, salicylic acid could be a key ingredient for you.
GLYCOLIC ACID
One of two major alpha-hydroxy-acids (AHAs), glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant that’s regularly used in products like peels and exfoliating toners, pads, cleansers, and creams. It works by dissolving the bonds between skin cells. That way, when you wipe off your skin, you take away those skin cells and reveal the smoother skin underneath.
Glycolic acid is especially helpful for reducing signs of aging, like hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles. But know that its effects vary depending on the concentration of glycolic acid in the product you’re using. Milder over-the-counter products—like toners, for instance generally contain around 5% to 7% glycolic acid and max out around 10%. These can be used a few times a week.
But peels contain upwards of 20% glycolic acid (as much as 70% for deep in-office treatments). Products with concentrations this high should not be used anywhere near as often as lower concentration products, and many are only available in a dermatology’s office.
LACTIC ACID
Another type of AHA, this is usually derived from milk and is generally gentler and less irritating than glycolic acid. It’s a common anti-aging ingredient in both mild in office peels and many at home exfoliating products, helping to leave skin more even and radiant. Plus, unlike many other exfoliating ingredients, which can be drying if not used properly. Lactic acid has been shown to increase the natural moisturizing factors in the skin. Just keep in mind that it will make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so you want to be extra diligent and on top of your sunscreen game when lactic acid is a part of your anti-aging routine.
HYALURONIC ACID
A fan-favorite in the hydrating ingredient world. Hyaluronic acid acts like a sponge, drawing water to and then trapping it in the skin. This means that it not only moisturises but can also help plump up your skin and fill in fine lines since it can hold up to a thousand times its own weight in water. Though sadly, those benefits are only temporary. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring sugar in our body. We produce it on our own up until about the age of 20. So it’s very inert and unlikely to cause any kind of skin complications. Just remember that in order for this anti-aging ingredient to work most effectively, there needs to be moisture present. In other words, if you slather it on parched skin while sitting in the middle of the desert, it’s not going to work. Your best bet is to apply hyaluronic acid on either slightly damp skin, or to layer it with another moisturiser.
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CERAMIDES
The outermost layer of your skin is known as the skin barrier, and its primary role is keeping the good stuff (hydration) in and all the bad stuff (irritants) out. Ceramides are lipids that keep this barrier strong and healthy, sealing moisture into the skin. In terms of anti-aging, the more hydrated your skin is, the more youthful it will look. Because ceramides are great for helping keep irritants out, they’re also a good ingredient to seek out if you’re prone to eczema. And since ceramides have basically no drawbacks, they’re an effective ingredient for any skin type.
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